Elliot Coffee Table

Ever since I started looking around for coffee tables I have been obsessed with the Elliot coffee table from Zuo but I really didn’t want to pay almost $500 for it.  I toyed around with the idea of having a local weld shop put together a base for me but after doing some recent projects where I waxed a chalkboard painted surface I realized that this was just the look I needed and for a faux metal base and way cheaper. Here are the plans to build this rustic coffee table with a faux metal base.

 

Required Tools

Materials

Cut List

Elliot Coffee Table Plans - Cut List

Cut List (Print this out)

Coffee Table Plans

As always if you have any questions don’t hesitate to comment below and especially don’t forget to post pictures of your finished products in the comments! ENJOY!

Elliot Coffee Table Plans - Step 1

Step 1: Create faux 2×2’s

Step 1: Create faux 2×2’s

Using eight of the 1x2x14″ boards create four faux 2×2’s by glueing one on top of the other as shown and nailing them together using 1-1/4″ finishing nails.

Also, create two faux 2x2x34.5″ post and one 2x2x44″ post by using the same method detailed above. When nailing together the 34.5″ and 44″ boards, make sure to avoid nailing with 4″ of either end since we will need this space later on for pocket holes.

Elliot Coffee Table Plans - Step 2

Step 2: Assemble the sides

Step 2: Assemble the sides

Start by drilling pocket holes in both ends of the remaining 1x2x34.5″ boards as well as the two 2x2x34.5″ posts we created in the first step.

Assemble the sides using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws as shown.

Elliot Coffee Table Plans - Step 3

Step 3: Assemble the base

Step 3: Assemble the base

As shown, drill two pocket holes in each end of the remaining two 1x2x44″ boards as well as the 2x2x44″ post you created in step one.

Assemble the base using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws as shown.

Elliot Coffee Table Plans - Step 4

Step 4: Assemble the top

Step 4: Assemble the top

Drill four evenly spaced pocket holes in four of the five 2x8x44″ boards as shown.

Assemble the top using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws as shown.

Note: Since the top and the bottom have different finishes now is a good time to skip ahead and prepare your surfaces and finish accordingly.

Elliot Coffee Table Plans - Step 5

Step 5: Final Assembly

Step 5: Final Assembly

Now for final assembly you have two options.

Option 1: Drill pocket holes as shown and attach with 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. This method could result in the pocket holes encroaching on the underside of the rail which would only be visible from the ground level.

Option 2: If you’re anal about things like things like this and really just don’t want to drill these pocket holes, you could use right angle brackets and 3/4″ wood screws instead.

Elliot Coffee Table - Complete

Finish

Top:

Base:

Seal:

 

As always if you have any questions don’t hesitate to comment below and especially don’t forget to post pictures of your finished products in the comments! ENJOY!

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  • jsluckydog

    Love your plans, this may just be my next build. One thing that would be very helpful is to have an overall picture that includes overall dimentions. It would help when first looking at the plans. Love what you’ve done and the finish is awesome! Thanks for sharing 🙂

  • Thanks! And great call jsluckydog! I will definitely start including a dimensions shot in the future. So easy yet so helpful!

  • jbeck1808

    What type of wood did you use for base and top. Thanks

    • I would recommend select pine for the base and some cool old barn wood for the top if you can find it. If not untreated pine 2x8s would work just fine. Its all in the finishing!

  • Travis Church

    What finishing techniques did you use for the legs? And the top?

    Awesome website btw.

    • Thanks Travis. I actually didn’t end up ever building this one. But for the base I would recommend painting with chalkboard paint and finishing with wax. If you want to see a project with this finish take a look at the Connor side table. As for the top I just recommend you stain and poly to your liking.

  • Will

    Really excited to give this project a shot (I’m delayed that the girlfriend and brother both saw the Connor side table I built and now I have some pre-Christmas work to do). One question: What is the rational for making faux 2x2s? If it’s just conserving wood, I think I’m more likely to save myself the potential to get nailing them together wrong and just go with the purchased one.

    • Hey Will, I made the 2x2s out of two select pine 1x2s because they are nice and square. At the time HD and Lowes in my area didn’t carry the 2x2s in select pine S4S, but now they do so I would definitely get that if they offer it near you.

  • Clint

    Awesome idea on the faux metal base! Would you happen to have a close-up pic of what the waxed chalkboard paint looks like? Thanks so much for sharing!

  • Chelsea

    Is there a similar plan for a work desk? i think this coffee table will look really nice as a work desk as well.

  • kristen sprague

    First-timer here and I’m ambitiously going to try the parquet top. Is there any chance that you have a square version? II can see that there’s an likely an easy way to just do two of the tops and put them next to each other but given that this is my first shot, I’m not confident in the math…

    Thank you so much!

    • Unfortunately I don’t. You’re suggestion does sound like it would work well though. Happy building!

  • Linda Korb

    Oh no! I just built this but the base and top don’t match up. I even double-checked my cut measurements thinking I goofed. What I found was that the 2 x 8’s don’t quite measure up to fit on top of the base since they’re actually 2 x 7 1/4″. So I am left with the top not quite fitting to the edge of the base. The length of the boards fit fine 🙂 I decided I was going to rip some 1″ pieces to stain and poly, then attach to the sides of the 2 x 8’s, but looked at a different part of the plans (Step 4 image) for referencing/double-checking the cut length…and they were too short. Then I realized the actual cut list says 47″ and the Step 4 image says 44″. I just wanted to share this so you can correct the plans for anyone using them in the future. 🙂

    • Oh boy, I really hosed that up. Thanks for the tips, I’ll need to look over this one again. This was one of my first plans.

      • Linda Korb

        I wondered if it wasn’t one of your firsts given the date 😉 I’ve got a fix worked up for it and I think it’s going to turn out fine! Nobody will know any different …tee hee!