Distressed Coffee Table with Storage

Our drawer...

Our drawer…

Kiddo's drawer

Kiddo’s drawer

DIY Coffee Table - Step 11

So a while back we cut down and refinished an old wooden door we found so we could swap out our current coffee table top for something with a little more character.  Well, as our family grew so did our toy collection, and being the neat freaks that Jamie and I are, we had to come up with a better solution. So below you have the DIY coffee table storage solution that worked best for what we needed. It has a draw on one side for all Brayden’s toys and a drawer on the other side for our blankets and such. The best part is…. it’s all HIDDEN! Now since we wanted to reuse our door as the tabletop I included a standard tabletop that could be built by anyone. I hope you enjoy! I know we have!

Required Tools


Cut List

DIY Coffee Table - Cut List

Cut List – Print this out!


DIY Coffee Table Plans

As always if you have any questions don’t hesitate to comment below and especially don’t forget to post pictures of your finished products in the comments! ENJOY!

DIY Coffee Table - Step 1

Step 1: Assemble table top

Step 1: Assemble Table Top

Assemble table top first drilling pocket holes in each of the six 2x6x38.5″ boards as shown. Then, using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws, screw the six boards together making sure they are flush at both ends. (You can sand smooth if necessary)

To finish off the table top, add the 2x4x33″ bread boards at both ends, again using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Make sure to clamp each joint as you screw together to assure an even surface.

DIY Coffee Table - Step 2

Step 2: Assemble faces for side panels (Qty 2)

Step 2: Assemble Faces for Side Panels (Qty 2)

Assemble the faces by first drilling two pocket holes in each end of the 1x3x9″ boards.

Assemble the faces as shown in the picture using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Coffee Table - Step 3

Step 3: Assemble Side Panels

Step 3: Assemble Side Panels (Qty 2)

Lay the 3/4 x 13-1/4 x 48″ plywood back on top of the face of the side panel, as to cover the pocket holes.

Align it so that the top is flush with the top of the face and the sides are set in 1″ from the edges of the face.

Screw in place using 1-1/4″ wood screws.

DIY Coffee Table - Step 4

Step 4: Assemble Base

Step 4: Assemble Base

As shown, drill four pocket holes in the top of each side panel. Also drill pocket holes in the 3/4 x 13-1/4 x 28-1/2″ plywood center support, as shown.

First, screw each side of the center support to the inside-center of the side panels using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secondly, make sure the inside of the side panels are square and evenly spaced 28-1/2″ apart and there is 3/4″ spacing maintained from the edge on all four sides.

Now, screw down the side panels and center support to the table top using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Coffee Table - Step 5

Step 5: Assemble Base

Step 5: Assemble Base

Set the 3/4 x 30 x 48″ bottom in place and align with the edge of the side panel backs.

Screw in place using 1-1/4″ wood screws.

DIY Coffee Table - Step 6

Step 6: Install Feet

Step 6: Install Feet

You can locate the feet so that the edges are shown or hidden, whichever is your preference. Make sure that they are evenly spaced from the corners and screw in place using two 1-1/4″ wood screws.

DIY Coffee Table - Step 7

Step 7: Assemble drawer boxes

Step 7: Assemble Drawer Boxes (Qty 2)

Check to make sure the inside of your side panels are spaced 28-1/2″ apart (Top and bottom). Also, check that your drawer slides are 1/2″ thick. If they are not you will need to adjust the width of your drawer box accordingly. Use the equation below to help calculate the box width.

Width of drawer box = (width of opening) – 2(thickness of slide)

Drill pocket holes in the 21-1/4″ x 26″ bottom as shown.

DIY Coffee Table - Step 8

Step 8: Install drawers and slides

Step 8: Install Drawer Boxes and Slides

Install drawer slides per manufacturer instructions.

For an easy tutorial on how to install drawer slides check out this YouTube video.

DIY Coffee Table - Step 9

Step 9: Assemble drawer faces

Step 9: Assemble Drawer Faces (Qty 2)

Assemble Drawer faces by first drilling two pocket holes in each end of the 1x3x9″ boards.

Screw together as shown, using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Coffee Table - Step 10

Step 10: Install drawer faces

Step 10: Install Drawer Faces (Qty 2)

With the drawer fully closed, align drawer face so that there is a 1/8″ gap all the way around.

Making sure to nail into the drawer box, attach the drawer faces using 1-1/4″ finishing nails.

DIY Coffee Table - Step 11

Step 11: Add trim

Step 11: Add Trim

Now, to complete your DIY coffee table, cut your base cap moulding to size, mitering the corners, for each of the side panels and drawer fronts as pictured.


We will be posting a separate page detailing how the finish was achieved very shortly!

As always if you have any questions don’t hesitate to comment below and especially don’t forget to post pictures of your finished products in the comments! ENJOY!

About The Author

Related Posts

  • Pingback: 130 upcycled storage ideas! Pallets, chairs, toolboxes, plus!Funky Junk Interiors()

  • Kari

    I have two antique large drawers out of a dresser I could not save, that have beautiful dovetail joints and a stash of barnboard and this has sparked an idea!  I am always searching for ways to use what I have – thanks!

  • Pingback: 6 Step by Step Tutorials on DIY Coffee Tables with Hidden Storage | Hidden Storage()

  • Niki

    Just wondering what type of plywood you used? Love this plan, and considering building it for added storage in our living room. Thanks.

    • Thanks Niki. I used 3/4″ sandply from Home Depot. I can’t tell you enough how much we love this piece in our living room. It’s awesome for storing kids toys! As always, if you have any questions while building feel free to contact me. Also be sure to post pictures of your finished build!

  • Susannah

    When I buy 1x3x6′ and/or 2x6x8′, the width is actually 2.5″, etc. Are you using true dimensional lumber or is the stock (not true width) at Home Depot what you use? Thanks!

    • Susannah, the plans are designed using stock wood from Home Depot. So yes, a 1×3 would be 3/4″x2-1/2″. Good luck!

  • Nick

    I’m trying to find 2×6 for the top but all I’m finding is lumber with rounded corners. Is this what you had planned for in your design or do I need to find square stock?

    • Hey Nick, nope the rounded edges are fine. Go with the 2×6 dimensional lumber (actually 1-1/2″ x 5-1/2″) and pick though the pile to find the best ones!

    • Bob San Soucie

      You could use 2x8s and rip them to 5 1/2 to square them up

    • John Roberts

      Another suggestion if you want to avoid rounded edges would be to use 1×6 for the top. This would also make it look more “store bought”, as most products you’ll find in a furniture store use 1″ thick wood for tabletops. It would also cut out a decent amount of weight (I’ve built quite a few furniture pieces out of 2x material and it’s HEAVY.

      I know it’s way too late to be useful for Nick, but hopefully someone else finds it helpful.

  • Pingback: 30 Awesome Toy Storage Ideas - Simplify Create Inspire()

  • Karen

    We love how this turned out! We made it a bit smaller than the plans but the drawers are still plenty big enough! And we have gotten so many compliments on it… Thanks! 🙂

    • You did an amazing job on this Karen! Thanks for sharing!

  • Pingback: Amazing Hidden Storage Ideas()

  • Pingback: 15 Hidden Storage Ideas To Fill Your HouseHold Space | WaaDIY()

  • Pingback: 20 DIY Ways To Repurpose Dresser Drawers For Your Home()

  • chuck

    This looks like a great plan. I’m excited to try it. It looks like the top is 49.5 inches long and the sides are 50 inches long. Shouldnt the top be an inch and a half longer than the sides or am I missing something? Thanks.

    • William Koch

      I notice the same thing, sadly I had built the top prior to realizing it. I am currently cutting down the sides by an inch and making the necessary adjustments length wise. Will see.

      • Sorry about that William. Hopefully you can make it work.

    • Dang Chuck you are right, sorry about that, Ill need to fix those plans.

  • Jason Leighton

    Silly question I’m sure, but do the plans change if I want to reuse a door like you did? I’m very new to woodworking. This will be my second peoject.

    • If the door is the same size as the top in these plans then no. If it is different the the plans would need to be adjusted accordingly.

  • Loving this table and am in the process of building. Two things: 1 – which was already addressed in an older comment is the fact that the table top is shorter than the length of the side panels. Wish I had read that before using wood glue. It still isn’t adjusted on the cut list, which brings me to 2 – the drawer bottoms are not included in the cut list.

    • Thanks for the heads up. Ill be sure to go back and look at the cut list. Sorry about that man

      • Cassie Douglas

        I am looking at making this for my first diy project. I was just wondering if the cut list was updated. Thanks!

  • Paul

    Do you plans that I can print out? or do I print each picture?

    • Sorry man. Since this was one of my first projects, I don’t have a downloadable PDF for it.

  • Jessica Valley Reams

    I noticed that you said what kind of plywood you used but what kind of wood do you use on the rest of it? Hubs and I have attempted to build several things but notice that our wood keeps warping or splitting after it’s been cut and put together. Any ideas on what type of wood to use?

  • John Roberts

    Just FYI, to both Jamison and potential builders, the cut list is still wrong.

    The “box” is spec’d at 31.5″ (including trimwork) x 50″, and the tabletop is spec’d at 33″ (5.5″ * 6 boards) x 49.5″ overall (38.5 + 5.5 + 5.5).

    If you want a uniform 3/4″ reveal all the way around, the only change you need to make to the cut list is the 38.5″ 2×6’s need to be cut at 40.5″. This will make the tabletop 51.5″ long, enough for 3/4″ reveal on each end.