Easy Modern Adirondack
Quick answer: This easy modern Adirondack chair strips the classic lounger down to two board sizes — 5/4×6 treated deck boards and a treated 2×8 — and a straight-line leg design borrowed from our outdoor bench, angled back for that Adirondack recline with a curved back cut for comfort. About $30–40 in lumber and one hour of beginner-level work with a drill, circular saw, and jigsaw. Full cut list with angles and nine illustrated steps below. Designed, built, and documented by Jamison Rantz.
An Adirondack chair has been on my list of things to build for some time now. However, I wanted to add my twist to it. When I was building my outdoor bench not too long ago, I realized that the simple modern looking leg design could probably be translated to more of a lounge chair like an Adirondack. So I tweaked the design to give it the angles of an Adirondack and added a curved back and armrest and now we have the easy modern Adirondack chair! We were able to build this chair for about $30-$40 and in about an hour with only a few tools.
Tools & materials
Dimensions
How to build an easy Adirondack chair
The plans below detail how to cut and assemble the wood to build an easy Adirondack chair.
Some things to note are that it is always highly recommended to pre-drill screw locations to reduce the chances of wood splitting. Another is that any fasteners that are used in combination with treated wood should be ACQ rated so that they do not corrode.
Total Time: 1 hour
Cut List
Cut the lumber as specified below. For the legs and supports, the second of each can be templated using the first to make sure they are the same.
If you do not have access to a miter saw the angles for these cuts can be found using a speed square as shown below.
Taper the Long Leg
Using the diagram below, mark the cut with a straight edge and cut the
taper with a circular saw. 
Assemble the Legs
Use the measurements on this diagram to mark the intersection of the short leg on the long leg. Then, make a mark at 4″ from the bottom on the front side of the short leg and align the short leg as shown below. Scrap boards can be used to balance the shorter leg while fastening with 2-1/2″ wood screws. Before fastening check to make sure the bottom of the short and long leg are even so that they will sit flat on the ground.
One way to enhance this build and make it last longer to use exterior waterproof wood glue at this joint and/or assemble with 3 galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts. If you want to get really fancy you can cut a lap joint!
Cut out the Back Supports
The back supports should be curved for comfort. Using the dimensions below you will be able to 3 points on the board (one is mirrored to the other side). Connect those points with a straight edge and then cut it out with a jigsaw or bandsaw.
Install the Back Supports
Pre-drill and install the back supports with 2-1/2″ wood screws. Especially at the top of the leg because that is where boards are most likely to split. I know because I was lazy and mine split.
One way to beef this connection up is to opt for longer lag bolts or install a 90 degree galvanized bracket on each of the inside corners of these joints.
Taper the Arm Support
Using the diagram below, mark the cut with a straight edge and cut the
taper with a circular saw.
Installing the Arm Supports
Mark the height of the arm supports on the leg, pre-drill and install them with 2-1/2″ wood screws. Then align the triangular pieces such that the top is flat with the arm support, pre-drill the supports and install with 2-1/2″ wood screws.
This is another area that could be beefed up with exterior waterproof wood glue at the joints and/or assemble the supports to the legs with 1 or 2 galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts.
Installing the Seat and Back
The 5/4 boards are used for the back and seat. These will get installed per the diagram below using 2-1/2″ wood screws. Pre-drilling first of course.
Cutting out the Arm Rests
Use the diagram below and a straight-edge to outline the armrests, then make the cuts with a circular saw and follow up the inside corners with a jigsaw.
Installing the Armrests
Locate per the diagram, then pre-drill and attach the armrests with 2-1/2″ wood screws. The screws in the back of the armrest will need to be pre-drilled and counterbored to an appropriate depth so the screw will reach the leg or use longer screws.
The finished chair
Adirondack chair questions, answered
How long does it take to build an Adirondack chair?
About an hour with these plans — the design uses straight cuts, two tapers, and two jigsaw curves instead of the dozens of curved parts in a traditional Adirondack. It’s a legitimate first outdoor project for a beginner with a drill, circular saw, and jigsaw.
What wood should I use for an Adirondack chair?
This build uses pressure-treated 5/4×6 deck boards for the seat, back, and arms and a treated 2×8 for the legs — about $30–40 total. Cedar works too at a higher price. Whatever you choose, use ACQ-rated exterior screws: treated lumber eats standard hardware.
What makes this a “modern” Adirondack chair?
The legs. Instead of the traditional curved stringers, it uses the straight, tapered leg design from our outdoor bench, tilted to Adirondack angles — so you keep the low lounging recline and curved back but cut the parts with a circular saw in minutes.
How do I make an outdoor chair last longer?
Pre-drill every screw (especially the tops of the legs — ask me how I know), and consider the optional upgrades in the plans: exterior waterproof wood glue at the joints and 3/8″ galvanized carriage bolts on the leg and arm-support connections instead of screws alone.
More outdoor builds
Questions? Comments?
As always, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to comment below and especially don’t forget to post pictures of your finished products in the comments! ENJOY!
Love the plans…..I’ve now made two.
They are quite heavy, but very comfortable.
I found that a pocket hole on the arm support to hold the support to the leg on the inside provided just a bit more support of the arm!
Thanks for the plans….My father-in-law now wants several for his cabin!
Easy to build, inexpensive materials. I am a tall guy with a replacement knee. I found the chair a bit on the low side for getting in and out. I added pads to the bottom and raised it up 2” (actually 2 5/4 pads) and now it is great. It is heavy indeed. I was worried about the connection between the leg and the arm support – not a lot of surface area there, but it does feel pretty sturdy. I did glue, screw, and bolt both that and the legs together.
I will definitely be rounding the arms on the front so they don’t look so blocky. I might also round the back for a more traditional Adirondack look.
Thanks for the plans, I needed another lawn chair
Hey Brian! Stoked you put it together so easily! Im curious what were the measurements for the “supports”? I cant seem to figure them out. I see the angles and the layout on the board diagram but im still unsure of the lengths of each side. Thanks you soo much!!!
Hey Awesome plans and great explanation! just one quick question for cutting the supports. I cant seem to find the measurements on the diagram. I see the angles but im not sure where to start the cuts. Thanks very much for your help!
Hi Brad, in the cut list (number 1) it shows a 20 degree cut, then measure 9″ from the shorter end and mark a 30 degree cut from there. Hope this helps!