In-Ground Basketball Hoop Installation
Quick answer: An in-ground basketball hoop is only as solid as its concrete footing. For the Goalrilla CV72S that means a 16″ diameter × 4 ft deep hole (a cardboard form tube keeps it clean), concrete mixed one bag at a time, and the anchor kit’s rebar and L-bolt mounting plate embedded level and square to the playing surface. Let the footing cure 4–5 days, then bolt up the post, backboard, and hoop — the heavy parts take 3 people. Full video, every step, and the LED hoop light install below.
One thing I remember about my childhood was having a basketball hoop on our detached garage. It was a low hoop (about 8′) and not adjustable but it got a ton of use. I wanted to give my kids that same opportunity to get outside, have fun and exercise with friends and family.
That being said, I wanted this hoop to last and perform like an indoor hoop, so we went with the CV72S in-ground hoop from Goalrilla and this thing is a tank! Not only is it anchored by 4′ of concrete in the ground but the thick steel post and structure let you know that this thing is not going anywhere for a long time. The backboard is 1/2″ tempered glass that meets the NBA/NCAA regulation size of 72″ × 42″ with a 4′ overhang. The CV72S also has Goalrilla’s STBLZR technology which dampens the shake in the backboard after a dunk or bounce of the rim/backboard for a pro-style feel. After much research this is (in my honest opinion) by far the best residential hoop on the market and I am going to show you the installation process in this article as well as the addition of a hoop light for some late night b-ball.
Disclosure: This article was sponsored by Goalrilla however the opinions are 100% my own.
The footing (day 1)
Depending on your ground conditions, this is probably the most difficult part. A 4ft deep hole by 16in diameter is required for the footing. I started this process with a post hole digger and after a few minutes decided to dig it out with my backhoe attachment on the tractor. Obviously we ended up with a much bigger hole, so I purchased a 16″ × 4′ cardboard tube, set it in place, leveled it, and backfilled around it. Another option would be to rent an auger to dig the hole.
Then it was time for concrete. We mixed it in place with a mixer attachment for the drill. Doing so one bag at a time will ensure the mixture is correct. The anchor kit also comes with rebar that is embedded into the concrete.
With all the concrete in place the mounting plate could be assembled and installed. Four long metal L-bolts get mounted to a plate and embedded in the concrete which is what the post will be bolted to. This mounting plate should be as level as possible and square to the playing surface.
Hoop install (day 5)
After allowing the concrete footing to set up for 4-5 days, it’s time to install the hoop.
Post assembly
That process starts by mounting the lower support arms to the post along with the lift mechanism.
Then the post needs to be set on a set of padded sawhorses so that the angled upper support arms can be mounted.
Then the stabilizer can be mounted to the top of the post. Check out the video to see how it works.
Setting the post
This step took three of us to stand the post upright and set over the anchors.
With the post in place I checked to make sure it was level.
And adjusted the leveling nuts as necessary to get it perfect.
The backboard
In case you haven’t gotten the theme yet, everything is heavy and the backboard is no exception. The guide recommends 5 people but we were able to get it with 3 and a truck to stand on. After getting it on the truck bed, two of us lifted it while another mounted it to the lower support arm.
Then the upper support arms get attached.
And the cross-brace between the two.
Finishing touches
To finish it off the cover gets mounted over the stabilizer.
Then the hoop gets bolted to the backboard and the net installed.
There are some pads that get screwed onto the bottom of the backboard and around the post.
Finally we raise the hoop to 10′.
Mark a line on the lift mechanism.
Lower the basket all the way down and align 10′ on the height sticker with that line.
Now we can easily adjust the hoop to our desired height which will go as low as 7.5′ and up to 10′.
Hoop light
One cool accessory that Goalrilla offers is an LED hoop light that will be perfect for those games that run a little later in the evening. The install was fairly simple and can be mounted to most other basketball hoops as well.
It starts by installing the correct mounting plate to the post.
Then I assembled the roller mechanism. This allows the light to be lowered, if servicing is required.
Then the first tube slips into place.
The light is assembled and attached to the end of the tube with the cord being fed inside the tube.
Multiple tubes are then linked together, feeding the cord inside of each one.
Finally a stopper is attached to the end of the tube. The light gets pushed up and over the hoop so it can shine down on the court.
The light can be plugged into a standard outlet with the use of an extension cord.
I had the opportunity to play with the light on one night and am very happy with the light that this thing puts out. I love the fact that it is up high and out of the way. It’s not blinding and doesn’t cast a lot of shadows. The further you are away from the center of the court the more issues you have with shadowing but that’s also not where most of the action happens.
Overall, I couldn’t be happier with the hoop. It did take a bit of work to set it up but I would say it is well worth it. This is one of those things that the entire family and friends will get enjoyment out of for years to come.
In-ground hoop questions, answered
How big does the concrete footing for an in-ground basketball hoop need to be?
For the Goalrilla CV72S we installed, the spec is a 16″ diameter hole, 4 feet deep. A 16″ × 4′ cardboard form tube keeps the pour clean if your hole ends up oversized, and the anchor kit’s rebar gets embedded in the concrete for reinforcement. Requirements vary by hoop — always follow the footing spec in your manufacturer’s manual.
How long should the concrete cure before installing the hoop?
We let the footing set up for 4–5 days before standing the post. The anchor system is four long L-bolts on a mounting plate embedded in the wet concrete — get that plate as level as possible and square to the playing surface, because everything above it builds on that reference.
Can you install an in-ground basketball hoop yourself?
Yes, but not alone. The digging, concrete, and assembly are all DIY-friendly, but the heavy lifts are a group effort: it took three of us to stand the post over the anchors, and three people plus a truck bed to hang the 72″ tempered-glass backboard (the manual actually recommends five). Budget one day for the footing and another for assembly after the cure.
How high is an in-ground basketball hoop, and can you lower it?
Regulation rim height is 10 feet, and the lift mechanism on this hoop adjusts anywhere from 7.5′ up to 10′ — set the height sticker against a reference line on the actuator once, and every adjustment after that is accurate. The low settings are perfect while the kids grow into it.
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Questions? Comments?
If you have any questions, drop them in the comments below — and when your build is done, post a picture. That’s the good part.