Truss Console Table




Console tables are our weakness. I wanted to create a more of an industrial looking console table this time though and I’ve always like the idea of adding casters to something like this. I got the idea of adding the concealed joist hangers from the industrial tripod fan by our friends Katie and Jeremy from the Bower Power blog. The casters, galvanized trim, subtle angles of the legs and the truss-like angled supports in the middle are really attractive to me. Since we were going for an industrial look we opted for the matte black base and gray top along. Can you believe that we built this table, casters and all, for about $40!?! I hope you like it as much as we do and if you have a different style in mind for this table I’d love to see it. Dress it up, dress it down, either way, I think this is a console that is going to stick around. Whoa, I’m a poet and I didn’t even know it. Cheers!

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Cut List


How to build a Console Table

If you decide to take on this project I highly recommend you download the printable PDF below to have with you during the build. To do so just click the button below and subscribe to get weekly updates. In return I’ll instantly email you the PDF for free! It’s a win-win.

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If you plan on going with a two tone look like we did, it is best to finish the top and base separately prior to final assembly. We went with Rustoleum’s Chalked Paint in charcoal for the base and Varathane’s Briarsmoke wood stain for the top. Then we sealed the top with 3 coats of matte polyurethane.






Questions? Comments?

As always, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to comment below and especially don’t forget to post pictures of your finished products in the comments! ENJOY!

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  • Ray Gurunian

    Two things.
    (1) I don’t know if you remember me writing you when I built Ana White’s rustic coffee table and I, like you, thickness planed the boards for the top and after assembly the top warped. Did you encounter thay problem when you planed the to of this table, or did you find something to keep th warping from occurring?

    (2) How do you find 2X2’s that are straight. I go to Lowe’s and Home Depot and al,ost all of the stock 2X2’s are severely warped, twisted or poor quality. The ones you used looked straight and good quality. Any secrets?


    • Drew Carpenter

      Hi Ray,
      I’ll chime in here with my .02 about 2’s. I’ve been buying a lot of 2×2’s and 1×2’s here lately, and if I ever wanted to build actual furniture with this size of wood, I’d make my own, because these 2 sizes of lumber in particular are definitely the worst when you’re choosing from a box store. I’m not going to pay for the ‘select’ 2×2 when I can easily get a 2×4 and make it a 2×2 – true 2×2, too! – on the table saw.

      If you do have to get it from a box store, maybe you have a Menards close, or a mom and pop lumber yard? I’ve found Menards lumber to be better than the other 2.

      Again, my .02.

      • Ray Gurunian

        Thanks for your .02. I do have Menards close, and I hadn’t considered ripping my own 2×2’s from 2×4’s. I’ll have to give that a try.

    • Hey Ray, like Drew, I too rip my 2x2s down from a 2×4 as shown in the video. I’ve been doing this for quite some time now. It’s easy and makes a good square 2×2. As far as the warping, I haven’t had any trouble. I think the key is to make sure the lumber is as close to equilibrium as possible. Meaning that the moisture content is neither lowering or raising. That way the amount of movement you should see is relatively and just related to humidity swings. Yours may have been a little wet and when you exposed the insides after planing, it would have caused it to move even more.

  • Greg

    I love this design. If I wanted the table top to be 24″ instead of 16 would I need to do anything other than extend the length of the support arms?

  • Matt Swier

    What does “PL” stand for in the plans?

    • Places. It’s short for how many places an item is used.