Farmhouse Dining Table


Some friends of ours have been wanting a DIY farmhouse table for some time now. After hearing about their shopping trip and the prices they were looking at spending on one I felt obligated to step in and make this one of my next DIY projects. My buddy Jake has no experience with power tools whatsoever, bless his heart. So, you’re in for a special treat with this one as you will get to see Jake build this table from scratch with no power tool experience! With a little guidance from me of course.

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Plans

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Plans

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Plans

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Farmhouse Table Plans

Amplified Plan - Buy Now

Special Offer

I’ve included the option to purchase the amplified plan for $19.99. The amplified plan is a printable plan that will guide you every step of the way and is packed with tips, tricks, money saving options, and answers to frequently asked questions. I know it’s hard to believe but its got even more helpful info than the plans below! Plus it’s a great way to support this site so we can continue to put out free DIY projects every week!

DIY Farmhouse Table Plans

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Plans - Step 1

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 1

Jake’s learning how to use a miter saw

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 1

Kreg R3 comes in hand when drilling pocket holes at the end of these long boards

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 1

Base is complete!

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 1

Stained with Rustoleum’s Carrington for the base color

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 1

Then painted and distressed with sandpaper

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Plans - Step 2

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 2

Jake learning how to run the foreman. This really saved us some time.

Screwed together

Screwed together

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 2

This is what happens when you sand and stain in the dark

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 2


DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 2

Rain + wet stain = fail

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 2

Maybe just fix the bad spots?

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 2

Nope! Still hate how this is turning out

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 2

Lets start all over again … 3rd times a charm.

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 2

This ol belt sander couldn’t hack it.

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 2


DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Plans - Step 3

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table - Step 3



Top: Rustoleum Carrington Wood Stain

Base: Distressed Finish

Base color: Varathane Carrington Wood Stain

Top color: Flat White Paint (4 coats)

Amplified Plan - Buy Now

Questions? Comments?

As always, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to comment below and especially don’t forget to post pictures of your finished products in the comments! ENJOY!

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  • Stephen Roy

    I really like your layout that you use to present your cut lists, easy-to-follow instructions and pictures.

    I also like your links to Amazon (huge fan of them) since I’m a Prime Member.

    • Thanks Stephen, I try my best to make it as user friendly and unintimidating as possible!

  • I’ve been building Farmhouse Tables for years and I often help people, across the country, when they want to build their own. There are over 100 pictures of them in my Gallery at There is one problem with this design though. When purchasing lumber from your typical Home Improvement store the lumber isn’t always dried properly for furniture building. I’ve learned from experience that the wood top on a table needs to be able to expand and contract with the humidity changes. If you Kreg joint together the TOP boards like this there is a high probability that the table top is going to BREAK.
    You’re much better off leaving out the Kreg screws from board to board, doubling up the screws into the Breadboard Ends and increasing the screws used from the Frame and Skirt up into the bottom of the table top. That way the table top has the ability to expand and contract with the changes in humidity or as it dries. Thanks and Keep on building!

    • Lovely table Kenny, and nice legs! 😉
      That’s a great tip. For an outdoor table I would agree 100% (and I did this for mine) but hopefully there’s not to much change in humidity inside. Lucky me I guess but I’ve never had a problem with this yet. For me, I wanted to keep these seams as tight as reasonably possible and what I generally do to combat this issue is to go easy on the Kreg screws (just a couple per board) and then back the screw out about a 1/4 turn. This gives the boards a little room to expand and contract. Thanks again. I’m no expert so I love getting some advice from one whenever I can!

    • Reattaching photo that was removed:

    • Andréane Lanthier Nadeau

      Hello ! I know this forum post is really old, hopefully I’ll get an answer. I just built a table really similar to this one. We attached the table top all together with pocket holes screw (7 2×6). The thing is, like you mentioned, it wasn’t leveled at all! We are totally newbies to woodworking… so we thought maybe if we attached it to our base it would make it better, but really it only made our whole table rocky. Our base is super sturdy and leveled. Our plans didn’t have aprons across for support. I’ve heard of Z shaped clamps for fixing the table top… I would just need some pointers because we are a bit discouraged from having to redo the whole top ! Anyway, thank you for your time!

      • One of the most important parts of a good top is choosing the lumber. Select the straightest, cleanest boards you can. Then, get it home and let it dry out for a few days to a week so it can reach equilibrium. If the boards have shifted too much, return them and pick some new ones. Depending on where you live and the moisture content of the boards when you buy them, this may not be as big of a problem.

  • judy

    This table is beautiful. I think though I need a square table for my space. Do you have plans for a square table with this look to it that you would be willing to share? Thanks.

    • Judy, I currently don’t have any square table plans but this one could be easily modified to be square by just shortening the long boards to the appropriate length.

  • Scott Shope

    Great Table! I am so excited I found these plans. Two Questions: What type of wood did you use for the 2x6s and 2x4s? What type of wood did you order for the Table Legs from Osbornewood?

    • Thanks Scott, I just used pine 2 by’s (stud grade stuff from HD) and ordered knotty pine from Osborne. Hope that helps.

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  • Do you have directions for making the table legs?

    • The table legs are purchased from Osborne Wood. (Link in materials section)

  • Galina

    I am planning on building farm table following you plans. How much roughly did you spend on materials: lumber and screws? How long does it take to built it (realistically for someone not too experienced), not including staining and finish?

    • That’s awesome Galina!
      Make sure to download the Amplified Plan at the top of the plans on this page. It has a cost breakdown and tons of great tips and info. Realistically I think you could get this done in a weekend with a few hours of work each day. Build and stain one day and paint and finish the next.

      Best of luck! Post a pic when your done!

  • Sheila Rupert

    Would this table need any extra support to make it counter height? Thanks!

    • Hey Sheila,
      No, I do not think it would. This would look great as a counter height table!

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  • Matt Berning

    This is great, although I would like to make this longer, possibly 81″ between the legs rather than 54″. Do you think there is enough support in the legs or would i need some bracing?

    • Thanks Matt! You would be plenty fine. The 2×4 aprons will more than support that span.

  • Tim T

    So did it take you 3 or 4 coats of stain? Did you do a polyurethane finish after that? Did you use a pre-stain sealer?

    • Only one coat of stain. I’ve notice Rustoleum’s wood stain is much richer and requires only 1 coat and no pre-stain conditioner vs Minwax which requires pre stain and multiple coats usually. And yes I finished up with a poly on the top.

      • Janet M

        I love your table. I am in the midst of building one. I’m wondering Did you use a water based or oil based poly?

  • Erik Olson

    I’m going to give it a try–you recommend the Kreg 6″ Automaxx clamp, is that the face clamp or bench clamp?

    • Awesome Erik! I’d love to see how yours turns out. I recommend the 6″ face clamp to clamp the joints when screwing the top together. This helps keep the boards as even as possible and requires less sanding in the end.

  • Eric Holmes

    I am going to be making this table very soon. I am adapting it into a 6′ square version because our dining room is square and I think it will help the composition of the room. What I did was just figure out the difference in your overall measurements and your cut measurements and applied that ratio to a 72″ overall measurement. Is that how you would go about doing it? I just want to make sure my 2×6 top will come out ok and I won’t have to rip a skinny board. That would kind of kill the look of the table. I also plan to miter 45’s into all the outside boards to create a kind of frame.

    • Hey Eric. That’s a great idea. Your table would end up being 71.5″ (13x 2×6’s @ 5.5″ wide each) the interior boards would be 60.5″ (71.5″-11″ for the two breadboards). So for the top you’d need:
      4x- 2x6x71.5″ (45’d at both ends)
      11x- 2x6x60.5″
      Beyond that, make sure the supports run across the interior boards and I think it will work well.

      I want to see a picture when it’s done!

      • Eric Holmes

        I will definitely post a picture. I am having trouble figuring out what length to cut the 2×4 stretcher boards. 63″? I don’t think that is right.

        • I’m fairly sure the aprons would be 62.5″ and the interior supports 65.5″. Might want to double check that. That is assuming 1″ overhang of top and 4×4 legs (3.5″ square)

  • Hi, your table looks great and actually very similar to my own DIY farmhouse table. Similar use of osborne table legs, and pocket hole jig. Keep up the good work!

    • Hey Chris! Great table and great site, thanks for sharing. Happy building!

    • Reattaching photo that was removed:

  • Susanne Crow

    I’ve never built furniture, just framed in walls, windows, and doors. I just bought a pocket hole jig, and I’d like to build my first furniture project. I’d really like this dining table, but much larger for seating 12. I’m thinking 11″ long. Could you tell me how you might change the plans to accommodate such a long table?

    • Hey Susanne! That’s awesome and if you can do all that then building a farmhouse table like this will be no big deal. And nothing says “farmhouse table” like a massive 12′ table! My recommendation for a table with this span would be to add an additional set of legs in the middle. Other than that you can probably figure out the board lengths you would need for the additional length.

      Make sure you post a picture of this thing when you get it done! I would love to see how it turns out!

  • Joe DosReis

    Do you think cutting the middle section of one stringer to add a linen drawer would weaken the table too much?

    • I think that would be just fine Joe. That’s a good idea.

  • Hey,

    Going to be starting this project on Saturday! Bought the Amplified Plan and looking forward to start assembling it! I will be sure to post a picture of it when it is done!!

    Thanks for the plans!


  • Brian

    It looks like from the pictures and captions you had some battles staining. Any suggestions – grit sandpaper, I’ve heard start tough, work to a finer grit, stain, then do another touch up – in other words, not a clue. 🙂 Any suggestions as far as finishing/painting/staining? Thanks

    • I would suggest starting with an 80 grit on a belt sander in the tougher areas. Then go to a 120 grit on an orbital sander all over, and really take your time to get it as smooth as possible. Finally come back with a 220 grit all over to get it ready for stain. Wipe it down with a wet cloth and stain then seal with a poly or equivalent.

  • Sarah

    We are using this plan for a table. My husband put it together and there is a tiny gap at the end of the long boards between the end board (does that make sense?) The other side doesn’t have a gap. Do you have any suggestions what to do? Do we remove that end piece and sand it down? or do we fill it with wood filler, epoxy, or polyurethane? I read that if you tape off the bottom and use an eye dropper the polyurethane would work best. Just wanted your input.


    • Hey Sarah, that can happen if the longer boards vary in length by just a little bit. You could take off the breadboard and sand down the longer board ends flat or even run a circular saw down a clamped board to assure a straight line. Wood filler would work as well. The polyurethane trick will probably end up cracking so I wouldn’t recommend that. Hope that helps!

  • Scott Neely

    Hi there, thanks for these plans. I started working on my table this evening but decided to begin with the table top first. I made a slight change to make it accommodate 3 people per side, but other than that I’m following the amplified plans. One question though. The plans show that there are two end pieces that are 38.5″ long, but that doesn’t seem to be wide enough. The plans show seven 2x6s that are 52″ long, for a total width of 42″…wider than the two end pieces that are 38.5″ long. Am I missing something or have I made a mistake somewhere? As is I’m looking to cut my two end pieces to 42″ to be flush with the seven long boards. Thanks in advance for your reply!

    • Hey Scott, no mistake, 2×6 is actually what’s known as the nominal dimensions and these boards actually measure 1-1/2″ x 5-1/2″ so 5-1/2″ times 7 boards equals 38-1/2″. It should work out just fine. Sorry for the confusion. Happy building. Let me know if you have any other questions.

  • Andrea

    Could you elaborate on how you did the legs? Did you stain the whole leg or just the parts you were distressing? Thanks!

  • Reid

    I’m really wanting to build a table very similar to one you have shown here, but i have no idea what type of wood to use (construction grade, popluar, oak, maple). Any suggestions? Also for the table legs, which type of wood should i use? Should the type of wood for legs, apron, and top match? Is ok to use a soft wood? Your response will greatly be appreciated.

    • I used construction grade pine on this one and oak on another. It all comes down to how much money you want to spend. Pine is cheaper and works fine. If you plan on painting the legs like I did them the wood type shouldn’t matter too much. If it’s stained to match the top then you should match the wood type. Basically the choice is yours! Happy building!

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  • Tate

    Thanks for the inspiration. We are in progress and ready to stain, but our test staining looks just like your first two yuck attempts. In your 3 attempts what changed for you and made it better? On your 3rd attempt, was it trying a different color of stain or was it a different way you applied the stain to the wood? Thanks for any help.

    • Sanding. Make sure the surface is sanded and prepped. I used a 220 grit sand paper for my final sanding before I applied my stain. I use a foam brush to apply my stain, let it sit for a minute, then wipe it off with a stain rag. Also, I’ve tried a few stains and highly recommend Rust-Oleum. I’ve noticed a more even cover and better color with their stains.

  • Amy

    Hello there!
    Love your amplified DIY table plans!
    I have also read through the comments to glean any more details or answered questions. I just bought some construction grade pine in the sizes from your buy list.
    I am new at this and noticed for the 2×6’s, the only option for Lumber at Home Depot & Lowe’s is “Douglas fir green wood”. I have heard you are never supposed to build with “wet” or “green” wood but I asked the store workers at both places and they say they only sell it in 2×6.
    I know you built yours with construction grade pine, were you able to get yours kiln dried? I only saw the kiln dried as an option for the 2×4’s. I live in sunny California, if I wait a few days for my lumber to dry out will it be okay? I don’t want it warping and shrinking on me, I’m worried? I’d love your expert advice!

    • I was able to find kiln dried 2x6s at my Home Depot. These should be fairly easy to find. Maybe try Lowe’s or another Home Depot. If by wet/green wood you mean pressure treated, I would say to try to avoid it if you can. You could let it dry out for a couple weeks if you can’t avoid it. Hope that helps.

  • Gary Marquardt

    I’m close to finishing the table. Built from reclaimed barn wood. Maple top and aprons and oak legs. My question is, do you think the pocket screws are strong enough to hold the aprons to the legs? The original thought was to mortise and tenon but I am liking th e ease of the pocket screws. Should I maybe add a corner brace?

    • Sorry I thought I replied to this. The pocket hole screws should be plenty strong enough. Brackets would only make it stronger. Sorry for the late reply.

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  • Mike

    I just built a square table using these plans. I couldn’t find any wide table legs so I just got 4x4s. I added 4 brackets to each table leg to make them a little stronger. There are slight imperfections and little gaps around a few edges but overall it looks great. It ended up 60.5 L x 59 W x 31 H, I cut the 2x6x8s in half to save a little money, although it isn’t perfectly square. I used Minwax English Chestnut and Satin Poly with Satin Black Magic Olympic One paint on the base. I just tried to match everything to our chairs and it matched perfectly. I had to make it a little higher than I wanted, but I am 6’8 and I had to get it high enough where my legs would fit under the sides. Thanks for sharing your plans, they worked great!

    • That looks awesome! I love the square design and the color combo. Great choices. Thanks for sharing.

      • apsuhead .

        Now my wife wants a matching kitchen island, with the same stain and black paint on the bottom. I will let you know how it turns out. Going to use the same concept, just try to make it look like this …

        • apsuhead .

          Sample …

        • I like it! I think that would look great. Can’t wait to see how it turns out!

          • apsuhead .

            It turned out great! It matches our kitchen table perfectly 🙂

          • Wow!!! That turned out great! Thank you so much for sharing. What a great idea.

    • Reattaching photo that was removed:

  • Beau

    My wife and I like the table so much we bought the amplified plans just to support you. I always end up having questions anyway so I figure that the plan will come in handy. Thanks again and God bless!!!

    • Thanks so much Beau, you guys are the best! Shoot me an email if you have any questions whatsoever! Happy Building!

  • John

    Did you use a planer or joiner for this project or did you just try to find the straightest boards you could get at HD??

    • No joiner or planer. I just take my time and pick the best boards I can from the good ole Home Depot. I try to keep my plans as simple as possible for the everyday DIYer. However if you want to get a little more advanced running the boards through a joiner or planer wouldn’t be a bad idea.

  • Tony

    Hi Jamison, great plans. This table was my first ever woodworking project and what fun it was! We needed to replace our glass kitchen table with a wood one with the birth of our son & we loved the design and farmhouse style. I modified the table dimensions to 53″ X 38.5″ to fit our kitchen and I was on my way. Some feedback:

    We chose soft maple for the wood (in hindsight maybe I should have used something more common & easier to work with for my first woodworking project) & unfortunately, I couldn’t find any lumber yard in the Atlanta area that carried 2X6 boards… there were scrap pieces of various dimensions and quality but nothing that I could use. I ended up ordering the wood from a millworks company, the quality was great but expensive. But I didn’t build the table to save money!
    I followed the instructions to cut the wood and assembled the base & top. Only deviation from the plans is that I used a random orbital sander for the final sanding. I found that the belt sander was good at smoothing the rough edges, but it was tricky to work with (esp. for a novice like me) and it left an occasional scratch mark. The orbital sander buffed out any marks left over from the belt sander and I thought it worked better for any sanding that needed a finer touch.
    I used General Finish Antique Walnut gel stain from Woodcraft for the top and Amy Howard Linen paint for the base. I had a lot of trial and error to get the stain right (make sure to use the underside of the table top to practice!), but I found the system that worked best for me was to wipe the applicator pad and the wood with a touch of mineral spirits, apply the stain and wipe off immediately. I needed only one coat because my wife loved the color! I applied 4 coats of poly sealer to the top and 2 to the base and I was done! I’ve attached a pic of the final table.
    Thanks again for the plans & thanks for getting me started in woodworking… I’ve already got several new project ideas from reading your site!

    • Tony,
      The table turned out awesome! It is hard to believe this was your first woodworking project, you killed it! I also use lumber from Home Depot, but if you are willing to spend the extra getting good quality lumber is a great choice. We have done some projects using reclaimed lumber from a salvage lumber yard in downtown Savannah, its gorgeous stuff but extremely pricey!
      We typically finish off with an orbital sander and 220 grit paper as well. It’s a great way to prep the surface and buff out any imperfections. I am so glad you enjoyed building your first project and I look forward to you sharing some more! As always if you run into any questions along the way be sure to shoot me a message. I am always happy to help my readers!

      • Tony

        Thanks Jamison!

    • Reattaching photo that was removed:

  • MikePix

    Thanks for the next inspiration. Cherry top and matching bench with maple legs.

  • MikePix

    Some pics

  • Homebrew

    Hi! I just want to let you know that I love the website and that it’s what motivated me to get into wood working. I absolutely love this Farmhouse table and have been making them for my family. I’m proud to say that, after making her a table, I am now my mom’s favorite. Finally! Keep up the great work.

    • That’s awesome! I love how it turned out. Glad I was able to inspire you to get into woodworking and put you in the lead for favorite child! ha. Happy Building!

    • Reattaching photo that was removed

      • chris

        could i get the plans for this table please

  • Rachel

    Beautiful table!! I’m also in love with those chairs! Any info on where your friends got the chairs from??

  • Kari

    I love this table. Can’t wait to build it (hopefully this weekend)! I really like the chairs too. Where did you get them? Were they finished or did you finish them? I’m having a hard time finding unfinished chairs since I would like to stain them the same color as the top of the table. Thanks!

    • I got the chairs from World Market, they were finished. The color on the chairs isn’t the same as the color on the table, but it is close enough that you can’t tell.

  • Holly Settlers

    I Love this table and plan on making it in the next two weeks. I am going to order the plan and then the legs so i can get the code for the discount. I just need some help on the dimensions for the cuts. We are a family of 9. I need a 37″ table wide and 8ft long. How do i need to adjust the cuts? If you could help me with this, i would appreciate it. Thanks. .

    • Awesome! Glad you are going to build this table. I am sure you are going to love it. So the only issue is the width, right now the table is 38 1/2″ wide, and since we are using 2×6’s, which are 5 1/2″ wide, so you can take out a board in the middle but that will bring you down to 33″ wide. 1 1/2″ isn’t too far off of what you want, so hopefully that will still work for you. And to get the 8 foot table, cut the center 2×6’s to 85″ instead of 52″ and for the apron cut to 87″ instead of the 54″. If you have anymore questions feel free to shoot me a message and I will help you the best I can!

      • Holly Settlers

        Thank you Jamison! I can’t wait to get started. I’ll let you know if i have anymore questions. Hopefully the more detail plan will answer anymore questions. thanks again.

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  • Lori Chauvin

    Hi Jami: I am new to wood working, but have been reading up on this for at least a 2 years. I have most of the tools necessary for the projects I want to complete. My 24 year old daughter requested that I make a desk for her from another website (shanty2chic). Do you have any recommendations for a grad school desk that requires style to the fullest to put into my daughter’s home? Thanks for this site and everything you do for the peeps out here like me who want to get into woodworking but lack time and talent.

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  • Scott Rush

    I am building this table now. I would like to make bench seating with a back to go with it. I can’t seem to find any plans for that. Got any ideas?

    • I currently don’t have any plans for a bench with a back. However, if you search on, she has a lot of bench plans and some with backs that you could modify to fit your needs. Hope that helps.

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  • Scott Rush

    See what you started?
    Now my daughter wants one, but 10 feet long. Would two legs in the middle be sufficient?

    • Haha. My bad man. I even think you might be able to get away with no support in the middle. But yes 2 additional legs in the middle would be plenty.

  • Tyler T

    What type of wood did you use for the table top?

    • I used pine for the table top

      • Tyler T

        How has the pine table top lasted? Is there a harder wood you would recommend for the table top?

        • It still looks like the day I finished it. Besides the mess my kids make every night. If you want a harder wood you could go with oak, ash or hickory.

  • Danny

    I see you using a lot of pocket screws on various projects. What are your thoughts on using biscuits for assembling the table top?

    • It requires a little extra work and the tool but I think its a great idea.

  • Karen

    After looking high and low for a new kitchen table, my husband convinced me he could build us one based on your plans. This was his first big project and he did an awesome job! We edited the plans so the table is pub height and a bit wider by adding 2×4’s along the sides of the top. Thanks so much for the plans…. We are building your coffee table with storage next!! 🙂

    • Karen

      Here is a photo

    • That’s awesome Karen! Thanks so much for sharing.

  • Steve Ferruolo

    Here’s my first build…ever! Thanks for the plans!

    • Steve Ferruolo

      Used the legs from my old 90’s style white tile table.

      • Steve that turned out great! And way to recycle old legs. You killed it for your first build. Can’t wait to see what you do next.

        • Steve Ferruolo

          Thanks brother! I’ll be posting another in a minute of the outdoor end tables.

    • Reattaching photo that was removed

      • chris

        hello my name is Chris and im am in a adv wood shop do you think i could possibly get the your plans for this table. 🙂 you can email them to me

        • Hey Chris! You can follow the plans in the post above or click to purchase the PDF and a copy of the plans will be sent to your email.

  • Mike O

    I see you used a belt sander for this project, is it that much faster sanding 2xs then, say, a 5 inch random orbital sander? Trying to decide if it’s worth it to purchase. I do a lot of sanding of 2xs.

    • It can definitely be done with only an orbital but a belt sander makes it go a lot faster. It’s easier and faster to even out the joints and ugly spots. If you plan to build similar projects, I’d say it’s worth the investment. Plus you can pick one up for pretty cheap.

  • P. Frederick

    Jamison: I have been looking online for farmhouse table ideas and I have settled on yours. The one in your tutorial is lovely. I am about to tackle this project alone. I was a bit hesitant about all the pocket holes but, we own the Kreg jig and I have helped my husband and daughter on another project requiring pocket holes. Any glaring reason why a female wouldn’t be able to make a table like this? (My husband is a big talker about projects but I am weary of waiting for him to actually do anything.) I plan to buy the materials tomorrow. The only adjustment I am making will be a longer table of 84 inches. Do you think the number of 2 x 6 x 8s listed in the material list will be adequate or will I need to buy an extra? If they are truly 8 feet long, I think the seven listed should work. Also, will I need an extra 2 x 4 x 8? I will let you know how this turns out. Wish me luck! Thanks.

    • Hey there, I don’t see any reason at all why a woman wouldn’t be able to build this on her own. In fact, I know plenty of women that have done so much more. YOU CAN DO IT! You will need an extra 2×6 and an extra 2×4. Good luck and I can’t wait to see how it turns out.

  • Abby Bindrum

    I have my table all built, but I’m having a heck of a time trying to find the Rustoleum Carrington stain… I also noticed that you changed the name of the stain on the base of the table to Varathane Carrington stain. Does that have something to do with this?

    • Yea, they have recently stopped carrying Rustoleum wood stains in Lowes but Varathane wood stain can be found in Home Depot and is exactly the same thing just rebranded. Also Rustoleum has its full line at Menard’s if you have one of those in your area.

      • Abby Bindrum

        I’ve been to Lowe’s, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, and Menard’s and none of them had it… Menard’s did have a big selection of Varathane, but not Carrington. I can’t find it online anywhere either. They must have discontinued it. Do you have a stain suggestion that is a very similar color? I really love the color in these pictures, but it looks like I’m just not gonna get it! Lol

        • I would suggest Varathane Dark Walnut, but I just sent you an email 🙂

  • Joseph

    Any suggestions on specific paint type for the legs? Thanks for all you do!

    • Joseph, Rust-Oleum makes a chalked paint in linen white. I’ve done quite a few projects with their chalked line and have been very happy with it.

  • Charles

    Hey there. Really like this table. I was wondering, do you get much debris (crumbs and such) stuck in between the boards? I want something that’s super easy to wipe down.

    • No as much as you would think. If you have access to a table saw and want to minimize the gaps you can rip the edges off.

      • Charles

        Thanks so much for all the info.

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  • Melanie Schulz

    I am interested in making this table, however we are a military family and move frequently. I am worried about movers coming and having to take the legs off of the table every 3 years. I would be afraid that unscrewing all the pocket screws from just the legs might end up messing up the legs. Do you have any suggestions for a bolt and nut system to attach the legs to make it easy to disassemble?

    • Melanie, first off thank you and your family for your service. For the table I would suggest using surface mount corner brackets with hanger bolts. These can be found on Amazon. It will allow for you to remove the table legs easily as many times as needed.

  • Brian D.

    Great plans. Hoping to get this done for Christmas. Like Mike I’m planning on doing a square. Any reason I can’t use 2x10s? I’m trying to get to about 66 inches square and 7 @ 2×10 gets me close (64.75 inches). Thanks.

    • Thanks Brian, this table would work great with 2x10s for the top. I’d love to see how yours turns out.

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  • Yay go Georgia! Haha sorry but my husband found this page and is going to make us our first dining table. Your design looks awesome so I’m excited to see how it will turn out.

  • Michael Howland

    Looking at doing this as my first major furniture build.

    I have some questions though. Could you swap out using mortise and tenon to connect the apron to the legs? I’m still a beginner woodworker and want to build something that will last a good while in our home, and I’ve always liked the thought of using more traditional joinery where possible.

    I’m also concerned about the top cracking, did you have much trouble just backing the pocket screws out or would it be better in an environment like mine (where we do not have air conditioning during the summer aside from a few window units in crucial rooms of the house) that might be more susceptible to seasonal wood movement? I assume the breadboard ends do a good job preventing the wood from cupping.

    I really enjoy the site, I’ve been eyeing a number of projects here and trying to come up with ways of putting my own take on them. I was even considering doing a sliding dovetail joint for the breadboard ends instead of screws, but not sure how that would affect the table in terms of movement.

    Any advice is welcome!

    • Hey Michael! You could definitely go with mortise and tenon joints if you would rather. I wouldn’t worry to much about cracking. I have several table tops built this way, two of which sit outside in my screen room, with no issues. Any movement would be negligible in comparison to the oval size of the project. A sliding dovetail joint my be difficult for the breadboards.

      Best of luck and I’d love to see how it turns out!

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  • Erica Womack

    Hi there! The pine we bought was quite damp. We put the middle pieces together, but they are spacing out quite a bit as they are drying out and shrinking down. Would you suggest leaving the two end pieces off and tightening the pocket hole screws throughout the middle part until it has dried out? Not sure what the best option is. Thank you!

    • Unfortunately, as the wood dries its going to do what its going to do, regardless of whether what you do. I try to purchase boards that are already dry that way I can pick the straight ones. If thats not possible then I’ll bring them home and let them dry. If they twist or cup I’ll take them back and swap them out. Your suggestion is fine and if you have too much movement then just pull the problem boards and swap them out.

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  • Kimberly Johnson

    Hi! I’m using your table as inspiration for refinishing a farmhouse table we bought on Craigslist. I have never done anything like this before. I finished staining the whole table, which turned out pretty good, but have a couple of questions about distressing the base. In one of your comments you mention using chalk paint, but in the tutorial you said you used white flat paint. I just bought white flat paint…will that work? I read the tutorial about using Vaseline, but I’m nervous to do that since I don’t know exactly where I want to distress (since I’ve never done this before). ? Will it work well without using Vaseline? And finally, I’m planning on doing a satin polyurethane finish on the top over the stain, but it says on the can it is for stain or raw wood. What should I purchase to protect the base after I’ve distressed it? Thank you so much!!!! Kimberly

    • Hey Kimberly! Flat white paint will work great. I would suggest using the vaseline and just apply a little bit where it would wear naturally, like the corners, edges and such. If you don’t use the vaseline, when you sand the paint off you will more than likely sand through the stain and expose the raw wood. If that’s okay with you then go for it. Use the poly for the top and the paint will serve as a protectant for the base so no poly is required.

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  • Bre Ryan

    Is there a printable pdf for this plan?

  • Here’s our end product. Size was modified to fit a small appt.

    • Very nice Cor! That looks like it will work well for a small space.

      • We made a baby table to go with it out of some left over materials. Using it as a side table between 2 chairs. The house is in the caribbean so it’s got a white/mahogany theme.

        • That is awesome! And in the Caribbean! I want to go!

  • Rob Boose

    With any soft wood you should use a wood conditioner first before you stain. This will help the wood stain more evenly and prevent dark spots. I use Minwax products.

    • Yea this is a common issue with Minwax stains. I have had good luck with Rustoleums stains however. The issues in this case were mostly due to poor surface preparation.

      • Rob Boose

        It’s not the stain but the wood. Any soft wood will do this regardless of the stain. I can say though that Minwax is superior to any stain I have ever used and I have used a lot.

  • dDa

    Beautiful table! Love the plan and will make one myself, but would like to make it longer – 8ft in length. Any reason that this plan would be difficult to modify? Leg support would still be sufficient? This is all probably pretty obvious, but I’m a noob and doing this on my own. Many thanks!

    • No worries. This table could be easily lengthened to 8′ with no problems.

  • Tiffany79

    About how much average does this table cost to make?

    • Should be able to make this for under $250. You can cut that down even further if you use 4x4s for the legs vs the turned legs.

    • Michael Schneider

      I found some cheaper legs for $70, and the rest (pine) cost me like $30. So the actual wood cost may only be $100. Figure a little more for sand paper, stain, and varnish. It’s cheaper still if you use 4x4s for the legs. You will need tools, though.

  • Ann Parker

    Beautiful table! I plan on using this as a guide for a table I’m making for a friend. How much overhang is there on this table?

    • Thanks Ann! There is 1″ overhang from the sides of the legs. See step 3

  • dDa

    Brilliant table! Just finished ours over the weekend – about 8.5 feet long and just over 4 feet wide. We love it – thanks for the tips and inspiration!

    • That looks amazing! Nice work and thanks for sharing!

  • Michael Schneider

    I just got the supplies, and I’m about to have a go at this starting tomorrow. Before I do, could you tell me how the pocket holes work? Do I drill a large hole first, and then follow up with a smaller pilot hole on the inside? Or is the pocket hole just enough to bury the screw head? I want to do it right, and I’m worried I’ll crack my wood is all.

    • Michael, you’ll want to buy a Kreg pocket hole jig. This will come with a “stepped” drill bit and the jig can be adjusted for the proper board thickness and screw length to assure the hole location and depth are accurate.

      • Michael Schneider

        Thank you very much. I did buy the Kreg mini jig, but I didn’t look at it closely enough. Now I see what you mean. So then you just drill that into one side of the two boards being joined, and then you just drive a screw through that into the second board (i.e. no pilot hole in board #2)?

        • That’s correct. The second board does not require I pilot hole.

  • Michael Schneider

    I decided not to paint the lower half. I like the way it all turned out.
    Now, a couple of pointers for those who try this in the future…
    1) Make sure you tighten the screws together nice and tight, which will get rid of gaps between boards.
    2) Use a planer (hand planer will do) before you sand, it will get a nice level surface.
    3) Since we’re using 2 x 6 boards on top, even if they’re tight, there will be spaces between the boards. I used Gorilla Glue to help fill those in further. If you have enough patience, you can make it totally flat. It is stainable and sandable. Polyurethane for finish can fill in further still.

    • That looks great Michael! Thanks for sharing and for the tips. Nice tight joints!

  • Abby B

    Thanks so much for all the help Jamison! The plans were great. I’m a trim carpenter in new homes, but this is the first time I’ve ever stained/painted furniture before so I was pretty nervous about that! I’m very happy with the way it turned out, though. It was a birthday gift for my boyfriend, so I painted the base black. (If I had been building it for myself, I probably would’ve painted the base white 😉 ) I just found the chairs at a thrift shop!

    • Abby B

      Here’s some pictures of the finished product

  • Abby B

    Thanks so much for all the help, Jamison! The plans were great. I’m a trim carpenter in new homes, but this is the first time I’ve ever stained/painted furniture before so I was pretty nervous about that! I’m very happy with the way it turned out, though. It was a birthday gift for my boyfriend, so I painted the base black. (If I had been building it for myself, I probably would’ve painted the base white 😉 ) I just found the chairs at a thrift shop! I’ll attach some more pictures below.

  • Dylan Floyd

    Nice looking table Michael!

  • Dylan Floyd

    Hi Jamison, this table looks awesome and my wife and I are thinking about giving it a shot. Do you by chance have plans for a matching bench seat? Thanks!

  • Emily

    Did you plane the boards for the tabletop before putting them together?

    • Hey Emily. No I didn’t plane the boards before putting them together. If you had a planer, then I would use it. If not, then just some good ole sanding.

  • Rebecca Vienneau

    Where did you get the chairs in the picture?

  • Nicholas McWain

    My first project with your plans. I made a few modifications by taking away the breadboards, using 2x10s, and making it 8ft long. Turned out great! Thanks for the insight!

    • Tuned out great! Thanks for sharing, and awesome cow painting!

  • Garrit Jacobson

    Just finished mine last week, I went for the matching benches instead of chairs. I prefer the bigger legs on the table but I was able to resuse some from an old table for free.

  • Renan H. Coelho Silva

    Question, how do you get the boards for the top to be flat, square, and straight? That is the final part for my project. My first tabletop came out very uneven.

  • Steve Mueller

    Just finished my first table using your plans as a guide. We have a huge room for the table so I got a little carried away and built this table 6’x 6′. I used 2″x10″s for the top to give it a bigger scale and I added an additional support under the top. I orders the same legs you used and love them. I stained the top with 1 coat of a dark brown stain. Then wiped on some Annie Sloan chalk paint (Paris Gray). Then wiped that off using steel wool. Finished it off with a wax to protect it. The legs are chalk painted as well and then distressed, also waxed. We just moved it into the room and it look amazing!! Thanks for the plans and the inspiration to make some saw dust in the garage again.

    • THIS IS AWESOME! From the size of this table to the finish. You killed it. Then benches are also sweet. Great job.

  • Brad Angell

    Really like those table legs, what wood type did you use?

  • Garrit Jacobson

    Finished mine a few weeks ago, I went for the matching benches instead of chairs. I prefer the bigger legs on the table but I was able to resuse some from an old table for free.

    • This looks great! The matching bench was a nice choice. You can beat repurposing old table legs for free. Great build.

  • Matt Richards

    How much longer could you make the table before needing any standing support in the middle. I’m looking to make it around 84 in but not sure if I would create any stress in the middle. Thanks for help in advance.

    • You could probably get away without adding additional supports for an 84″ table, however it won’t hurt to throw some in just to be on the safe side.

  • Brad Angell

    What wood selection did you use for the table legs from Osborne Wood? I want to order those same legs and start my table ASAP! Thx.

    • Hey man. I got the pine for this table. Especially since I was painting and distressing the legs, the cheaper options was better.

  • dasmith1128

    Love this table and hoping to build our own. As this is built would it be enough support for a longer table to seat 12 that is 11′ x 4′ 6″? Planning on just using a solid 8×8 leg. We want to build a nice wood table but traditional farmhouse framing on the bottom doesn’t allow for seating on the ends as easily.

    • You could easily build a longer table. My only advice would be to throw in an addition middle brace for added support.

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  • Rob

    Coming along…thanks for the plans.

  • Rob

    Delivered to my sister. I think it turned out great.

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  • James Holland

    I have to say I’m extremely proud of how this turned out. This was my very first time building any type of furniture whatsoever so that makes it even better in my opinion. I sanded down all corners because I have a 1 year old and I think they came out really well. I also extended the plans to 8’10.5″ long and chose to go with 4×4’s instead of the legs to save cost. I went a little overboard with the vaseline and over-distressed it.

    • WOW! This is AWESOME! Can’t believe its your first build. You did a great job. The vaseline is a litter easy to get carried away with but it looks awesome.

      • James Holland

        Thanks so much. You’ve inspired me to build more. My brother-in-law and I just got done making a coffee table today. Thanks so much for taking the time to build this website and enable people to fall in love with DIY projects. But I think my wife might hate you because now I own most every tool that you have ever used in your builds. Haha!

        • HAHAHA well at least she will get a ton of furniture out the deal 🙂 Save money on buying furniture and spend in n tools!

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  • Paul Shirriff

    I built this a while ago and decided to share. I used 4×4 for the legs because i couldn’t find any table legs at a decent price. It came out great!

    • Wow! Looks awesome. The 4×4 legs looks great too. Good work.

  • Tricia Barnes Worley

    love the table ! Do you know where the fork & spoon on the wall was purchased ?!

    • Thanks! I actually don’t. They were given to us by my sister-in-law, not sure where they were purchased from.

  • Linda Neal

    Love the light fixture, do you know what brand it is?

    • I do not. It was there when we purchased the house.

  • Justin McGill

    Any one have any tips for making top level when screwing together in pocket holes ?

    • Travis Welch

      I’m in the process of making this table and noticed the same thing. The way the screws are laid out makes it want to twist. I’m assuming that when it’s fastened down to the base it should flattening out.

  • Travis Welch

    Decided to make the table 78 x 44. Noticed after assembling the top that there was a slight twist from opposite corners. I alternated screws like the plans suggest. When I lay the top on two beam I can manually flattening it out. Should the top correct itself when screwed down onto the base?

  • Brent Nichols II

    Great plans and idea. We had been looking a while for something that would fit and look good in our house. This fit the bill perfectly. Had to modify it a bit and I used reclaimed flooring from the defunct Chris Craft factory in Holland, MI. for the top. Turned out great. Not too bad for a first furniture project. Now on to building a bar/entertainment system in the basement.

  • Theresa Loweth

    Hi there we will be attempting to make this table soon but have a question. What did you use to seal it polyurothain?

  • Anthony Graber

    Do you think it would be okay to use 5/4×6 and 5/4×4 wood instead of the 2x sizes? I know I would have to use 2″ screws instead.. The 5/4 wood is squared off and this would minimize the gap in between the boards. Thanks!

  • Allen

    Hi, I’m wanting to built a 12′ table. If I use 4x6s for the legs and add in two supports across the middle, do you think that would be enough? Would you suggest anything else for stability? I thought about cutting out the middle of the top of the 4×6 to create a place for the long 2×4 to sit in on the leg. Do you think this is necessary and would work?

  • Tim

    Hey Jamison,

    My wife and I just finished our first build with your easy to follow amplified plans. Well worth the purchase. Where did the chairs in the main picture of the table come from. As you can see from the folding chairs in the picture we need some.